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Toyota GT86 (How to make faster?)

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36K views 27 replies 17 participants last post by  MovesWithClouds  
#1 ·
Hello

I have a question with regards to the GT86

I am in the market for a new car, was looking at Alfa Romeo Giulietta Cloverleaf and an Audi TTS 2012 and younger. Now I know the 86 isn't going to be as fast as either of those but I do love the look of the car and how beautifully it drives. However, it does seem a tad underpowered IMO. You pull up next to a Polo GTI, Peugeot 208 GTI or Corsa VXR and you get left for dead. And in a car that looks like its fast, that may come across as a little underwhelming IMO.

Now for the experts here that have owned and modified their GT86. What mods would you do? I am aware of the supercharger and turbo kits being aprox ÂŁ3.5k and while I could save for the kit over 6 months and buy it I probably wouldn't without considering all other options. With regards to N/A. What can be done to improve its straight line speed? My target isn't 0-60 in under 6 seconds but around the 6.2-6.5ish mark would be nice. Maybe around 230BHP all in. I wouldn't want to be beaten by stock Type R Fn2s lets put it that way haha! I was thinking about these options...

1. DECAT (Don't need 2) maximise throttle response (ÂŁ60 welder/cutting job)
2. Light weight pulleys (GFB LIGHTWEIGHT PULLEYS aprox. ÂŁ200)
3. Injen induction kit (ÂŁ350)
4. Better quality tyres (ÂŁ250-ÂŁ300)
5. Remap (ÂŁ350)

How much of a difference would these mods make to a 0-60 time respectively from the standard and sluggish 7.4seconds? Id imagine that the tyres alone would massively help as the GT86 comes with piss poor budget eco-tyres as standard am I correct?

Anyway I appreciate any info. No matter how long or short as I am doing my research and need to know as much as I can.

Thanks in advance

Kind Regards

Jezeky
 
#3 ·
The first 3 you mention are all not really proven to give gains. You can experiment with your car. No 4, tyres will help you get a better launch which will help. No 5 is not really going to change it without a long tube manifold.
The single change ( though will cost you more than your 1 to 4 options together) is an exhaust manifold and then a tune. Tuning developments is the most cost effective and Ace is the best.
A turbo or a supercharger will not cost 3.5K but at least 4.5K , TD turbo and SC will take you to 5.5K unless you manage to get a used one.
From reading your post this is not the car for you as you seem to want best results in a traffic light F1. Think long and hard and be comfortable with what the car stands for, if you decide to take the plunge.

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#4 ·
The GT86 isn't about straight line speed, it's about the handling. Traffic light grand prix is not this car's forte,whereas twisty roads is! The tyres are Michelin Primacys fitted for a reason.
Sounds like you need to test drive one with a turbo & a supercharger to see if it meets your expectations.
 
#5 ·
There's nothing you can do NA to improve the 0-60 times which is hampered by not being able to hit 60 in second.

If you race on the road you get what you deserve. These cars are about the finesse of handling. Despite my race liveried car, I let absolutely everything leave me for dead off the lights. If it takes no skill, what's the point?

My car is quicker than a stock car in acceleration due to manifold, decat and remap, but it's probably not a huge amount. Better mid-range torque helps of course. I'd put my money into a nice set of coilovers and get the handling well setup. Nothing will keep up then.
 
#8 ·
Remap + better panel filter (Cosworth meets fine particle standard and is less restrictive) + Low temp Tstat can get you 15-20hp

Exhaust can get you another 20-25hp for the full system.

Our cars generally a bit low on power so 230hp would be the top end.


Regarding the 0-60 numbers, TGB are conservative. In Japan at Tokyo motor show when it was unvailed the 0-100km/h (0-62mph) was 6.8sec

also:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=939Grdvphaw"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=939Grdvphaw[/ame]
 
#9 ·
There is this things called Go-faster stripes. Not sure how it works but my guess is it's something like why golf balls have dips or why shark suits are faster.



But,.. if you check what was done on the rally version: changed exhaust manifold, different map and shorter final drive.

The impact of that shorter final drive is complicated. It's more like a tradeoff and I believe some people on here have done comparisons showing it didn't have the 0-60 benefits one would expcet. But the rally engineers thought it worthwhile - as did some drivers whose choices I generally value.
 
#10 ·
The rally car also has modified engine internals I believe, and they might have wanted to beef up the diff anyway so changing the final drive fell out of that choice rather than a decision solely for faster times.

Gearing is complicated and certainly with forced induction I dont think it gives you much at all. At the end of the day our goal is to stay as close as possible to maximum power like and electric car... but corner speeds have an effect and I observed on some corners at snetterton, the stock gearing was better and vica-versa so I didnt both changing the final drives on mine. I use the car on the road and like the lower revs on the motorway.
 
#12 ·
Ultimately to make a gt86 faster:

staying N/A you can add, at best 40hp with remap, filter, tstat and full exhaust, and it might costs you ÂŁ3k in parts and labour ~ ÂŁ75/hp

Or you can add 90hp with forced induction (TD turbo kit) at about 4.5k ~ ÂŁ50/hp


Note also a remap, Tstat and filter ~ ÂŁ750 is ÂŁ50/hp

So to conclude if you are budget limited id go for the latter and add an exhaust to taylor the sound if required.
 
#19 ·
True but nothing wrong with wanting to make it a bit faster is there? if you like the handling and the looks but want a bit more poke.

Lots of the 86/BRZ community have go faster bits after all....

I will say however, I thought the stock GT86 was a very good out of the box package for road only.
 
#21 ·
The more restrictive cat is the one in the manifold so that would be the one you'd want to remove, but you'd need a remap as the sensors surround that one.


Getting performance on a budget all I would do is replace the panel filter with a Cosworth one (~ÂŁ40), add a silicone intake hose (~ÂŁ110) (halved the cost of the induction kit for similar performance which really is 4-5bhp at best, probably wouldn't even notice it due to dyno variation, but getting rid of the sound generator makes the car sound more natural) and PS4 tyres, then save up to do the manifold and remap in a single session. Tuning developments package includes a filter but they offer a drive in/out manifold and remap for ÂŁ1500, then eventually whatever second hand catback you can source to fit your noise requirements.



Ideally whatever needs the remap is the last thing you'll want to do, otherwise you'll be forever going back to have the map adjusted for whatever you've bolted on since.
 
#22 ·
Well, technically one can drive just fine with catless header on stock ECU tune too, it may even give slight powergain and eg. fill torque dip .. issues w/o appropriate tune are two - gains will be partial, and due no cat CEL will be thrown, making car not MOT passable. Tune helps with those two bits, allowing to use more effective exhaust design for more gains and disabling cat readiness checks, but one can drive even without it (even if most won't)
 
#24 ·
0-60 times are all over the place for this car depending on where you look. People have managed to do it in 6 sec! It's all about tyres and the change in to 3rd gear. The stock tyres hold the car back a lot if you want better acceleration.

The best you can do without a SC/turbo is a better manifold (removing first cat) and a remap. After that you won't gain much by adding extra things.