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Hi guys, I explored under the car this evening, as I'd prefer not to pull out trim if possible. It's relatively accessible from below; I can get my hands in there.






Is the rubber boot really hard to remove, and are you removing it up (towards the cabin) or down (towards the gearbox)? I tugged on it by hand but I'm not sure thats going to do the job. I could get it over half of the connection (twithout the clip) pushing it up, but didn't have much luck pulling it down by hand. Any tips?
I had a look at it from underneath as read that it was doable from there. It looked quite difficult as access is pretty tight.

Having done it a few times from above, I think it would be quite hard to get off from underneath. I personally slid the boot down over the shifter bushings and toward the gearbox. I did it by carefully using a small screwdriver. I managed to get the tip inside the top of boot between the shifter and then was able to use that to stretch/slide it over the shifter to reveal the bit you need to get to.

I am not sure if you are able to do it the other way, as in slide it toward the back of the car and then up over the shifter.

The shifter noise has become a distant memory for me now though!
 

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I had a look at it from underneath as read that it was doable from there. It looked quite difficult as access is pretty tight.

Having done it a few times from above, I think it would be quite hard to get off from underneath. I personally slid the boot down over the shifter bushings and toward the gearbox. I did it by carefully using a small screwdriver. I managed to get the tip inside the top of boot between the shifter and then was able to use that to stretch/slide it over the shifter to reveal the bit you need to get to.

I am not sure if you are able to do it the other way, as in slide it toward the back of the car and then up over the shifter.

The shifter noise has become a distant memory for me now though!
Great thanks. I will have another look at the weekend when I have a bit more time. I may need to use some kind of hook to pull it down. Or I may give up and remove the interior! Just don’t want to create new rattles to replace old.
 

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Hi folks, how are the o-rings holding up? Haven’t got round to fitting mine yet but have a week off so planning to try again.
 

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You get round to fitting yours?
Mine is still completely silent :smile:
I tried unsuccessfully to fit it from under the car again, but I wasn’t convinced I was going to manage without damaging the rubber boot. Haven’t got round to pulling the centre console out yet; need good weather and time to coincide!
 

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Thank you all for contributing to solving this very annoying problem that I have put up with for way too long. Just ordered some o rings and look forward to solving one of the many niggles I have with my 86. Currently got half the centre console apart chasing a rattle that I think was coming from the clock circuit board and buttons. Thought I may as well fix the gear lever vibration whilst I have the car apart. Removing that starter button was tricky, in the end I used a pry tool in the empty USB socket hole to pop the trim.
 

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Thank you all for contributing to solving this very annoying problem that I have put up with for way too long. Just ordered some o rings and look forward to solving one of the many niggles I have with my 86. Currently got half the centre console apart chasing a rattle that I think was coming from the clock circuit board and buttons. Thought I may as well fix the gear lever vibration whilst I have the car apart. Removing that starter button was tricky, in the end I used a pry tool in the empty USB socket hole to pop the trim.
Would love to hear to some feedback on the fix when you get round to doing it. I actually sold my car a couple of months ago but the noise never came back.
Made such a difference to the driving experience for me.
 

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Hi I found this topic while looking for the shifter rattle fix. From all the forums and related topics this is the 100% working fix. I would like to thank all the people involved in figuring this out. The car is now a pleasure to drive.

For anyone still thinking about doing this here are some tips:

1. It is possible to do this from the bottom of the car as I had and my hands are big. The only issue is peeling off the rubber dust shield without damaging it (mine was already damaged by the lovely people from Toyota Bristol south who couldn't fix the rattle despite replacing the whole shifter assembly). Use a blunt tool, back of a pencil or something that won't damage the rubber.

2. To get the clip trough after the O-ring is installed you will need to put a lot of force on the washer and the other side of the pivot and thread the clip trough.

3. Putting the clip trough the second hole is much more difficult than trough the first but 100% possible. Don't give up!

4. Grease the whole thing with thick silicone grease for lubrication and longevity.

One other thing that could fix the rattle is to pack the whole dust boot with thick silicone but I haven't tested it. Putting 1mm by 10mm O-ring fixes the rattle 100%!
 

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I did the o-ring fix a few weeks ago, it reduced the rattle but didn't eliminate it. I disconnected the sound symposer as one of the US forums suggested some sort of frequency resonance (I wasn't convinced but thought "what harm can it do?") and, guess what? No difference! Another US forum suggestion was to replace the reverse lockout lever with a Perrin so I ordered one from Amber Performance (arrived next day, thanks chaps) and fitted it today and, guess what? No more rattle! Ok, so it's a £100 fix but SO worth it. The symposer delete has made a huge difference, btw, despite having put the 12v plug in there, that only reduces the noise but doesn't remove. Just completed a quick "essential journey" and it's a pleasure to let the engine rev out now. Next job: tighten the loose rear end.
 

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Update on my fix: the O-ring lasted for 30 miles and the rattle is back! I will try to put a bigger one so see if it helps. If it doesn't help I will try the reverse lockout but £100 is steep!!!
 

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I also slipped a couple of o rings around the split pin too to dampen the washer from the outer side. Big success for me was the reverse lifter - game-changer!
 

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Thanks for the tip Andy. I have ordered a bigger OD O-ring and I will add some between the split pin and the washer as my car spends a lot of time above 5000rpm and it's driving me insane.
 

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Not sure if I ever mentioned on here or not but I actually decided to move the oring to the other side of the shifter as I was still sometime hearing it very faintly.
This meant sliding the shifter pin out of the shifter completely, putting the oring over it and then putting the shifter pin back through the shifter.

I never heard it again at all after this. If changing the lockout fixed it then I think it means that for you, the spring clip/washer was not the cause of the rattle.
There is a fix for that somewhere that involves PTFE tape around the lockout area to give it a more snug fit on the shaft... This was my first point of call and made no difference as obviously the source of my noise was not this part.
 

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Not sure if I ever mentioned on here or not but I actually decided to move the oring to the other side of the shifter as I was still sometime hearing it very faintly.
This meant sliding the shifter pin out of the shifter completely, putting the oring over it and then putting the shifter pin back through the shifter.

I never heard it again at all after this. If changing the lockout fixed it then I think it means that for you, the spring clip/washer was not the cause of the rattle.
There is a fix for that somewhere that involves PTFE tape around the lockout area to give it a more snug fit on the shaft... This was my first point of call and made no difference as obviously the source of my noise was not this part.
It seems like the whole assembly has some areas where the tolerances are just large enough for them to cause vibration and certain resonances, so some people are experiencing it slightly differently.

So far, the original o-ring solution (on the washer by the split pin) seems to be holding up for me. Still no noise that I can hear.
 

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Not sure if I ever mentioned on here or not but I actually decided to move the oring to the other side of the shifter as I was still sometime hearing it very faintly.
This meant sliding the shifter pin out of the shifter completely, putting the oring over it and then putting the shifter pin back through the shifter.

I never heard it again at all after this. If changing the lockout fixed it then I think it means that for you, the spring clip/washer was not the cause of the rattle.
There is a fix for that somewhere that involves PTFE tape around the lockout area to give it a more snug fit on the shaft... This was my first point of call and made no difference as obviously the source of my noise was not this part.
What difference would it make in your opinion? I got much bigger O-rings (30mm OD) in the mail hoping that they will last longer as I went through 1mm of rubber very quickly. I will be putting some O-rings between the split pin and factory washer hoping to further silence it. I can't imagine they let it go into production like that!!
 

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I order the recommended size a while back but still haven't fitted them. Now seems like an opportune time to give it a go. I might order one of the multi packs from Amazon/eBay as the lockout clicking when shifting from 3rd to 4th is quite loud!
 

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Luke's fix suggests the collars in the base of the shift lever wear over time. There's a Subaru TSB on the internet about this for early cars but, if the shift wears on later cars, it may be an area to revisit from time to time.

It's a shame that I've almost eliminated the rattle on my 2017 model but not quite. It IS a lot better but, occasionally, it's still there...
 

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I didn’t get round to fitting an o-ring; they’re still sat on my desk!

I’ve just fitted a Raceseng reverse lockout and went for a quick 10 mile drive. No rattle for now. I’m not not sure if the lockout has stopped it or if hammering the pin out moved something. Perhaps on a temporary fix. Will report back if it returns.
 

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Not sure if I have replied to this thread before, but my 2012 had it's gear stick replaced twice and it still started to rattle above 4.5k a few weeks later.

The 2017 did it after about a month, so I just gave up and ignored it.
 
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