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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's gotten to that time where I need to replace my front brake pads.
I need recommendations, I don't really want to spend more than £100 and I only really need them for the road as I ain't planning on tracking it but I do throw it about on b roads on the weekends.

Educate me with your brake pad knowledge!
 

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There's a lot of threads about this already 🙃 All with lots different recommendations.

For what your doing, the standard pads should decent enough. The OEM pads are a step up from what you find on most cars from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There's a lot of threads about this already 🙃 All with lots different recommendations.

For what your doing, the standard pads should decent enough. The OEM pads are a step up from what you find on most cars from the factory.
My apparent OEM pads (fitted from Toyota dealer) have worn from new to 2mm in less than a year having only done 3k miles. So either they weren't OEM or I drive alot harder than I think.
 

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My apparent OEM pads (fitted from Toyota dealer) have worn from new to 2mm in less than a year having only done 3k miles. So either they weren't OEM or I drive alot harder than I think.
Something has gone very wrong there! I've done a little under 40k on my OEM pads and they still have life in them :)
 

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Use the search function mate. This has been discussed to death.

OE pads lasted me 50K miles +, so something is not right. You cannot get them there that quick with what ever spirited driving you do, unless you have done a good few track days with it.
 

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My apparent OEM pads (fitted from Toyota dealer) have worn from new to 2mm in less than a year having only done 3k miles. So either they weren't OEM or I drive alot harder than I think.
Are you sure that's BOTH sides down to 2mm? You could possibly have one pair of pads worn much more than the other due to a sticking caliper.

A caliper sticking enough to eat pads at that rate would also significantly drop your mpg.

Do both front wheels spin freely ?
 

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One thing I wish I had done was to clock the discs to check for runout when I put new ones on, but I didn't have the kit. After a while I started noticing a slight pulsing from the brake pedal at slow speeds, what some may call "warped disc" but is really just uneven wear. I would agree that OE pads do live forever. I put EBC on though, and no complaints apart from the front discs already have a fair lip on them with the pads only about 50% worn.
 

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Re:excessive brake wear:
It should tell you something if the breaks are wearing the same all around or just on one wheel. In the latter case maybe the brake sticks. Then if you drive a bit , going easy on the brakes, and you stop and feel all the wheels, one wheel will be much warmer than the other ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Are you sure that's BOTH sides down to 2mm? You could possibly have one pair of pads worn much more than the other due to a sticking caliper.

A caliper sticking enough to eat pads at that rate would also significantly drop your mpg.

Do both front wheels spin freely ?
All 4 pads worn down, passenger side wheel doesn't spin as freely as it should. When it came to having a look at the pads, they were all stuck to the disc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One thing I wish I had done was to clock the discs to check for runout when I put new ones on, but I didn't have the kit. After a while I started noticing a slight pulsing from the brake pedal at slow speeds, what some may call "warped disc" but is really just uneven wear. I would agree that OE pads do live forever. I put EBC on though, and no complaints apart from the front discs already have a fair lip on them with the pads only about 50% worn.
So what's the solution? Do I need new discs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re:excessive brake wear:
It should tell you something if the breaks are wearing the same all around or just on one wheel. In the latter case maybe the brake sticks. Then if you drive a bit , going easy on the brakes, and you stop and feel all the wheels, one wheel will be much warmer than the other ones.
The wheel that doesn't bind, is the one that gets hotter.
 

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So what's the solution? Do I need new discs?
Disc wear limit is shown in the attached link:


Other than disc wear limits or run -out there is also general visual condition (heavy lipping on edge / excessive corrosion / deep surface grooves etc. etc )
 

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The wheel that doesn't bind, is the one that gets hotter.
That sounds like a contradiction. The wheel which is getting hot is the one where the pads are wearing most, at least at that moment. But wheels sticking can be erratic, one moment they stick, the other moment they don't. It's the cumulative time they rub against the disks which counts.
In any case I think that needs to be looked into. Maybe there is some deformation (typically caused by overheating on track day) or the brake pistons that have trouble sliding because of dirt/corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That sounds like a contradiction. The wheel which is getting hot is the one where the pads are wearing most, at least at that moment. But wheels sticking can be erratic, one moment they stick, the other moment they don't. It's the cumulative time they rub against the disks which counts.
In any case I think that needs to be looked into. Maybe there is some deformation (typically caused by overheating on track day) or the brake pistons that have trouble sliding because of dirt/corrosion.
My thoughts exactly, the wheel that gets the hottest is the one that never binds. I don't know how or why, but it does. I'm going to try some new pads, see if its just shitty pads that are currently on, if not, new discs may be in order.
 

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If the discs look OK, it makes sense to try new pads only. Does the car pull to either side when braking? Just that the one that gets hot could be doing all the work which indicates a different problem. I had sticky brakes before and ended up fettling the pads backing plates with a file so they slid easily in the guides - otherwise they were a really tight fit which didn't seem right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If the discs look OK, it makes sense to try new pads only. Does the car pull to either side when braking? Just that the one that gets hot could be doing all the work which indicates a different problem. I had sticky brakes before and ended up fettling the pads backing plates with a file so they slid easily in the guides - otherwise they were a really tight fit which didn't seem right.
Turns out by pads and disc were worn, so a full replacement of all of them has fixed the issue.
 
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