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Discussion Starter #1
apologies in advance for this post asking for advice. I have tried searching on this forum and elsewhere, and have also called toyota and subaru dealers in order to get a sense of clarity and what seems to work best. i seem to be getting different information about which grade fluid i should be using when changing the fluid for an auto box. according to subaru, it ought to be dextron 3 LX ATF, but toyota say 75/90. both saying around 7.5 litres for a dry fill. for the diff, i've been told 75/90 gl5 lsd type - 2litres. if anyone can shed any light or confirm any of the above, and also offer some recommendations about which grades and brands work well, that'd be very appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for that, gazza82 - i didnt think it was, but local toyota were initally 'not sure', and then checked somehow and said, yeah, it's 75/90.... i rang subaru after, and the bloke in parts said no to 75/90 as well, saying basically it's dextron 3. thanks for the link - it's very helpful in terms of step by step process but from what i can, all it says about the fluid is 'Use Toyota Genuine ATF WS'. thanks again
 

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I'd go by Subaru ... after all they make the car! :)

But all Autos will use an ATF ... (I think the AT gearbox is from actually from Lexus)
 

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I can't comment on the automatic transmission, other than what's in the US spec BRZ's workshop manual, under "Recommended Materials", "Manual transmission gear oil: MG gear oil special II / GL-3 or higher (75W-90)"
Edit: The manual also says the following, along with a very convoluted procedure! "Filling amount (reference): 2.0 L (2.1 US qt, 1.8 Imp qt)"

As for the diff...

Toyota uses their own LX 75W-85 gear oil in the diff. I happen to use 75W-90, as it's more common (and it's listed as an alternative in the workshop manual), but I don't use one designed for LSD's. As the LSD is a Torsen style unit, you are absolutely fine to use 'normal' gear oil, so long as it's up to spec (GL-5). This was confirmed to me by Millers when I called them up several years ago, and is reflected on their website. Whatever brand you end up going for, you'll need around 1.1 to 1.2 Litres. A single 1 Litre bottle just won't cut it sadly.

Don't forget, the fill/drain washers for the diff are single use, so you'll need to grab a couple of them as well.
Diff Washer Size: 24mm OD x 18mm ID x 2mm Crush
Diff Washers Part No's: SU00300122, TOY1215710010, T12157-10010
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks, Kaviar - that's really useful. yes, the toyota bloke did say 75/90 lx and GL5; so it's good you've confirmed that, as well. have seen a few videos but they're all for the manual. with the auto, i think you lose a lot of fluid by flushing it once or twice; drain, fill, start and go through gears; then repeat. am sure i'll get there eventually - no massive rush, but would like to buy the stuff in advance, including the crush washers (thanks also for mentioning, and for the part numbers).
 

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thanks, Kaviar - that's really useful. yes, the toyota bloke did say 75/90 lx and GL5; so it's good you've confirmed that, as well. have seen a few videos but they're all for the manual. with the auto, i think you lose a lot of fluid by flushing it once or twice; drain, fill, start and go through gears; then repeat. am sure i'll get there eventually - no massive rush, but would like to buy the stuff in advance, including the crush washers (thanks also for mentioning, and for the part numbers).
No worries :) (y)
I've edited my previous post a few times as I've remembered/found more info lol, so there might be a few more useful bits in there.

You can grab a copy of the mini manual from the link below. Granted it's for a 2012 (not sure where I picked my 2014 one from) but the procedure should still stand. It looks like you're right about having to repeat the process a few times, each time with 2L of oil it would seem?

You can find the hard core workshop manual at the link below. The info looks the same but it's a VERY handy thing to bookmark.

Edit: Having had a quick dig around techstream, the biggest capacity I can find listed for the AT is 4.5L (when removing the torque converter). It also lists a heat exchanger that I'd forgotten the AT had. This will add a small amount of capacity to the system but not much. I think the tricky thing will be getting all of the fluid out, as (so far as my very limited AT knowledge goes), a chunk will remain in the torque converter?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No worries :) (y)
I've edited my previous post a few times as I've remembered/found more info lol, so there might be a few more useful bits in there.

You can grab a copy of the mini manual from the link below. Granted it's for a 2012 (not sure where I picked my 2014 one from) but the procedure should still stand. It looks like you're right about having to repeat the process a few times, each time with 2L of oil it would seem?

You can find the hard core workshop manual at the link below. The info looks the same but it's a VERY handy thing to bookmark.
thanks again, Kaviar. The link that gazza82 inserted in the first reply is pretty handy, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No worries :) (y)
I've edited my previous post a few times as I've remembered/found more info lol, so there might be a few more useful bits in there.

You can grab a copy of the mini manual from the link below. Granted it's for a 2012 (not sure where I picked my 2014 one from) but the procedure should still stand. It looks like you're right about having to repeat the process a few times, each time with 2L of oil it would seem?

You can find the hard core workshop manual at the link below. The info looks the same but it's a VERY handy thing to bookmark.

Edit: Having had a quick dig around techstream, the biggest capacity I can find listed for the AT is 4.5L (when removing the torque converter). It also lists a heat exchanger that I'd forgotten the AT had. This will add a small amount of capacity to the system but not much. I think the tricky thing will be getting all of the fluid out, as (so far as my very limited AT knowledge goes), a chunk will remain in the torque converter?
I think that's why the step by step procedure involves the flushing process - which is why 7-8 litres are required for the service. Am presently hunting around to find a decent quality dexron 3 at a reasonable price. some of the cheaper end stuff looks okay but might be suspect so will avoid and go for fluids that appear to be tried and tested. thanks again for adding the details, Kaviar.
 

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No worries :)
It's a shame the capacity falls between standard container sizes, sadly it ends up adding a few £ to the total.

If it's any help, Opie Oils tend to send out a ~10% discount code most weeks via their news email.
Although depending on the cost of shipping, sometimes it's cheaper to buy from them via eBay, as the vast majority (if not all of their listings) have 'fast and free' shipping. If you're really lucky the sales department won't have paid much attention and the price will be cheaper on eBay as well :)

Everyone has their favourite brands but for a good few years now, I've pretty much exclusively used Castrol for 'normal' applications and Millers for something more special like; odd grades, classics or more performance oriented applications.
The exceptions being I normally run Toyota's engine oil in the 86 over the winter and if budget is paramount, I've found Comma to be pretty decent.

All that said, so long as you've done the research and it's the right spec, you can't really go wrong :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for the tips Kaviar - comma looks like a reasonable bet... i rang another toyota dealer today, just to see if i could some kind of corroboration. they told me.... ATF WS (World standard, i think). I did ask if that was the same as dexron 3 (i've no idea if it's the same or not, but assume it isn't), and he said, it's ATF WS. the plot, like grades of fluid/oils, thickens or in some cases thinnens. more than likely go for comma or similar, i think. will check out opie oils as well. thanks again.
 

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If one of the Admins contact Opie they may provide us with a forum discount code (I got one for a Classic Car Club I belong to!) ... otherwise google may throw up a different club code and they don't appear to be too worried which one you use! ;) Might be a good idea to find one that has similar fluids though! :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If one of the Admins contact Opie they may provide us with a forum discount code (I got one for a Classic Car Club I belong to!) ... otherwise google may throw up a different club code and they don't appear to be too worried which one you use! ;) Might be a good idea to find one that has similar fluids though! :unsure:
might give them a ring; the opie website has some info, but throws up 75/90 as one option for my car with my reg number in. they have a 10 per cent discount for first orders which might work out cheaper than the same products on ebay. my usual mechanic has a subaru specialist contact and will ask him for advice. still a bit of triangulation/corroboration/research need to pinpoint but could be i'm over thinking it and all it needs is the toyota atf ws.
 
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