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Got 99 problems and I think the diff is one

2K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  Gray 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, just picked up my GT86 last night and already want to get some things sorted!

Start with the good stuff - it's had a new clutch recently, gearbox feels ace, engine revs sweet, well looked after etc. However some bad things


  • The "unusual wire".
  • There's some brake judder. Seems this is more likely to be the pads than the discs, but the car definitely hasn't been tracked so not sure.
  • It's got the idle crickets, is there any fix for this now? I'm right in thinking it's not a big issue except the annoying noise?
  • Rear feels a little stiff on full lock at low speeds. Nice because it spins the inside wheel a bit, but not sure if the diff is locking a bit too much (seen some oil changes help, will check the history and see what's in it).
  • The shifter pattern cap on the gear stick is a little unstuck, not sure if that's a super glue job or a new stick.
  • It's very slightly delaminating/or has some condensation on the edges of the rear view mirror - is the only fix a new one?
  • It's got a slight haze to the front (but not rear) lights. I can't tell if it's inside or outside, is it easy to get inside them and see?
  • Seats are in almost perfect condition, honestly the new (2.5k miles) one I test drove the other day had the same amount of bolster damage. Just a very small, 5mm or so, rip on the side stitching I'd like to fix before it gets bigger.

On the plus side it's actually had its "60k" spark plug service already (it's at 58k miles now), recalls done, so it's due a slightly cheaper service than I thought.

My original plan was to take it to Toyota for an early service - is there anything on the list (bar things like lights and seats ofc) that would be better off taking somewhere else? I've not done much spannering myself on cars but have raced/maintained karts before so more than willing to give it a go.
 
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#2 ·
The rogue wire has been covered I think.
The idle crickets are the HP fuel pump, Toyota did a warranty job on them but most of the crickets came back! To comply with Toyota recommendations, use only 98 Ron petrol,Shell V-Power or Tesco Momentum.That may help the crickets.
Diff oil should be changed every 20k miles.
Rear view mirror -you will need a new one, unless you can live with it!
 
#3 ·
The idle crickets are the HP fuel pump, Toyota did a warranty job on them but most of the crickets came back! To comply with Toyota recommendations, use only 98 Ron petrol,Shell V-Power or Tesco
I believe the crickets are to do with the amount of ethanol in the fuel. I get the crickets when using Shell V-Power and Tesco Momentum 99. But I don't when I've used Esso Supreme 97 - which I believe is the only ethanol free petrol available in the UK.

But to the OP.....don't worry about it. It's a bit annoying, but it doesn't do any harm. I've had the crickets since day one in my 2013. Apparently they revised the high pressure fuel pump in later models, but I don't know how costly or difficult it would be to change.

As for the other issues:
- Brake judder is probably just a build up of pad material on the discs. Take the car out, get the brakes warm with some fast braking, then do some repeated hard braking from high speed, but don't actually come to a complete stop. Should clean up the discs nicely. If you've still got issue after that then look at maybe replacing pads or discs, or investigating the slider pins on the calipers in case they are binding a little.
- Diff: not sure, but a good start is to the change the diff oil. Easy to do yourself, and cheap. And as growlerkat says, it's a regular service item.
- Gear knob: if you cant fix it with glue, I'd just look for a replacement gear knob personally. Mind feels a little loose sometimes, but hasn't come unstuck.
- Rear view delamination is a common issue with the frameless mirror. I go my first one replaced under warranty after a few years, and then just recently the replacement started doing the same. You can buy frameless replacements on eBay, but I just replaced mine with a mirror from a Subaru WRX (I think?). Cheaper, and it has a frame, but at least you wont need to replace it every three years.
- Headlight haze: I have this one only one of my headlights. Drivers side light has a slight haze which I've cleared with some bodywork polish, but it's still there. Some others on here suggested Meguiars Plast-X which I'm going to try next. Passneger side light is crystal clear though.
- Seats: cant help you here, other than to say my driver's bolster is pretty worn, but then I'm a fat git. However the seats are otherwise in good condition.

Enjoy!
 
#4 ·
Lights you can't get inside but as [MENTION=1023]Conscript[/MENTION] said, it'll just polish out. Quite common on plastic lights it seems.

A Torsen diff will tend to be a bit rough at full lock at crawling speeds, more noticeable on lower grip surfaces.

I'm now on my 2nd mirror that has delaminated - I guess this is down to the inability to keep moisture out the cabin.
 
#6 ·
Awesome, will get on those cosmetic things they all seem easy. I live in central London so going to have to wait till the weekend to try out the brakes, then will decide what to book in for the service. Thanks guys, will keep you posted!
 
#8 ·
Everything has been covered by the looks of it! However I'll weigh in on a couple things...



  • There's some brake judder. Seems this is more likely to be the pads than the discs, but the car definitely hasn't been tracked so not sure.
    - Is it a pulsation that changes with the speed of the car as the brakes are applied? That's warped discs (I've had this before). Keeping your foot on the brake when you come to a halt can cause this (creates a hotspot on the disc).
  • It's got the idle crickets, is there any fix for this now? I'm right in thinking it's not a big issue except the annoying noise?
    - I instantly got the crickets on mine when I used Sainsbury's 95RON unleaded (I desperately needed fuel). I've been using Tesco Momentum 99 for well over a year now, and I haven't had the crickets since.
  • Rear feels a little stiff on full lock at low speeds. Nice because it spins the inside wheel a bit, but not sure if the diff is locking a bit too much (seen some oil changes help, will check the history and see what's in it).
    - This is normal characterisitc of Torsen diffs. Unlike LSD's, there are no clutch packs, so can feel a little tighter during tight turns.
  • The shifter pattern cap on the gear stick is a little unstuck, not sure if that's a super glue job or a new stick.
    - Mine is getting like this too! I've been on the market for a decent replacement. I want a Raceseng gearknob, but a little out of my price range at the moment!
  • It's very slightly delaminating/or has some condensation on the edges of the rear view mirror - is the only fix a new one?
    - I also have this. It's not bad enough to warrant replacement yet, but will need it at some point.
  • Seats are in almost perfect condition, honestly the new (2.5k miles) one I test drove the other day had the same amount of bolster damage. Just a very small, 5mm or so, rip on the side stitching I'd like to fix before it gets bigger.
    - Black shoe polish is excellent for fixing up black leather if you ever have any issues with that.
 
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