Kodename47's Blog - Toyota GT 86 Forums UK
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post #1 of 154 (permalink) Old 5th February 2013, 13:09 Thread Starter
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--- Current Mods List ---

Cosmetic - Interior
- P3 Gauge - For Sale
- Custom YoSpeed Centre Console Plaque - Sold
- Alcantara Binnacle Cover by AJ124
- Brushed Metal Effect Wrapped Dash Parts

Cosmetic - Exterior
- De-badged with Black Toyota Emblems
- Carbon Fibre Rear Diffuser
- Carbon Fiber Rear Spats
- VLAND V2 Sequential Rear Lights
- LED Indicators, Reverse & Front Fogs Lights
- LED Smoked Side Indictors
- TRD Oil Cap - For Sale
- TRD Radiator Cap - For Sale
- Tarmac Sportz Bonnet Dampers
- Subaru OEM Mirror Fold Kit

Suspension, Chassis & Brakes
- Litchfield Springs
- SuperPro Front Camber Bolts
- Abbey Motorsport Geo Setup
- Beatrush Master Cylinder Brace - Sold
- Porsche GT3 Brake Ducts
- Rota Torque 17 x 7.5 with Nankang NS-2R Tyres (225) [Track/Summer] - Sold

Performance
- Sprintex Supercharger with 70mm Raceseng Pulley tuned by Abbey Motorsport & K47
- Berk HFC
- Cobra Overpipe
- eBay Q300 Replica 2.37" OD/2.25" ID Exhaust
- Airaid Intake
- Decatted OEM Manifold
- Cosworth Low Temp Thermostat
- Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can x2

- 240 bhp & 195lb.ft at the hubs (Pre Exhaust & Intake) -

** Latest Favourite Picture **


---------- BLOG ----------

1st off was a nice simple change. I disliked that the rear lights were LEDs but that the indicators weren't. I found it somewhat inconsistent. Also as an added bonus, the LED bulbs will remove the orange reflections you get in the indicator housings. I tried a couple of configurations, but I'll just post the one that I found worked well. Read my full LED indicator thread for more info.

For front and rear > 7440 CREE & 12 SMD


For sidelights > 501 5 SMD bulb


LED flasher relay


The relay is a 10 min job to replace and the bulbs are easy enough to swap. The rears need to be done in a certain way as the bulbs are too large to be able to fit in the holder and then move into place due to the short cables, but it's possible to do. The end result is actually brighter than the stock bulbs and was exactly what I was looking for.

Here's a good pic to show what the grey looks like from the front with all 3 light housings the same colour/tint, a marked improvement on the orange indicators


Next up was to do something to the induction side of things ready for my trip to Litchfield for a remap. After lots of reading and searching I decided that a ‚€œfull‚€Ě induction kit was a great way to waste money so decided on a halfway house, a new filter and silicone replacement intake pipe. I also wanted to keep the noise generator as I wondered that if I went this route but deleted it, would I end up with no intake noise at all? My search ended with buying in from the USA a K&N replacement filter and AVO's intake pipe. It took 10 mins with a sharp knife and sand paper to remove the tiny imperfections within the tube and 30 mins to fit everything. Full thread here

Result: throttle response slightly improved and a slightly better induction noise in the car.



Step 3. Trip to Litchfield. Rocked up with c.1500 miles on the clock. This was the requirement
- Oil & Filter Change
- Install Powerflex Positive Shifter Bushing
- Install Litchfield Eibach springs and have their fast road setup
- Have the ECUtek remap + purchase cable

The car now feels great. The power delivery feels much better on the performance map, the torque dip is much less noticeable and it actually sounds more aggressive too. The economy map also returns better MPG too for those that worry about these things. That was proven on a very snowy return cross-country journey from Tewkesbury The springs have made a subtle yet noticeable change with the 30mm-ish drop and the ride is actually just as comfortable as stock. The fast road set-up also feels nice to drive, the front end feels more pointed as a result. Not had a chance to feel it with the back end out

My purchase, useful for logging and map updates etc.


Here's how the car looks as a result
Edited by: Kodename47

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post #2 of 154 (permalink) Old 5th February 2013, 13:29
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Really enjoying these blogs, its great to see whateveryoneis upto, and different ideas you all are having!

I think my nextpurchase is going to be theLichfield springs, its good to see its verysubtle, i was a bit worried it would look to low.


Keep up the good work. What wheels have to decided to go for?

Black/Cloth,MT,Rota Grids
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post #3 of 154 (permalink) Old 5th February 2013, 14:32 Thread Starter
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Thinking of white Rota Torques - 17x7.5 with, more than likely, Yoko AD08s in either 215 or 225 guise. I loved them before and think they'd be great on track. Also been looking at what to replace the Primacy's with when they do eventually run out but undecided..... something new might be out by then anyway

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post #4 of 154 (permalink) Old 5th February 2013, 14:43
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Nice thread mate. Im very tempted by the silicon intake tube and new air filter....

Ade's Road and Track Car Thread
Cosworth - AP Racing - Ohlins - Hayward & Scott
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post #5 of 154 (permalink) Old 15th February 2013, 13:13 Thread Starter
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While looking over at the GBE website after they signed up on here I spotted the Innovate MTX combined oil temperature and pressure gauge.¬*
¬*
The gauge is progammable via a serial cable and¬*shows pressure¬*on the numerical display¬*and temperature¬*on¬*the LEDs around the edge.¬* After speaking to¬*GBE and after looking on FT86 forum I think that the pressure sensor/switch can be tee'd off the original location under the filter using a small extension hose rather than mounted straight in the original thread. Also there is a good place to take temperature reading in the top of the block that can be used, but would need an adapter to fit the innovate gauge.¬*They will do the gauge and everything needed for about £190, so I have a feeling that I will do that.
¬*
Also, thinking about where to mount it, CTP can do a replacement drivers vent for £18+VAT which I'm then tempted to create a custom¬*mount without destroying my original vent, a bit similar to that OBD one available. I like the dash vent gauge as it looks so clean and is easily reversible too.
Edited by: Kodename47

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post #6 of 154 (permalink) Old 4th March 2013, 10:30 Thread Starter
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Here's a little glimpse of my weekend's tinkering. Yet to be completed but a hint of what I've started to do:
¬*
I got to drive the car without the snorkel and¬*the main¬*resonator removed.¬*The induction noise and throttle response were awesome. It was sounded like a open¬*cone filter intake..... and probably heat soaked as much too I'm also going to remove the resonator in the AVO pipe section and replace the snorkel with the resonator holes filled. Shouldn't affect performance really but may sound better (hopefully).
Edited by: Kodename47

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post #7 of 154 (permalink) Old 5th March 2013, 19:23 Thread Starter
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I measured the stock snorkel intake and it's 60mm at the opening give or
take, which is plenty. IMO you want as little to disrupt the airflow as possible
so I have blanked off the resonator holes inside the snorkel and capped them at
the bottom to reduce any possible heat soak.


I have also capped off the
50mm hole¬*outside the¬*airbox and cut a 46mm cardboard blanking plug for the inside of
the airbox and used tape to airtight the hole like so:

¬*
This means that there is noting to disrupt any airflow from entering the snorkel
all the way past the filter. I have also removed the lower resonator attached to the intake pipe and blocked the hole using a silicone bung. Here's the final install:



¬*
And the snorlel re-fitted..... what a PITA

¬*
I intend to do some testing on this and compare to my previous results.¬*These tests for MAF/IATs can be found here including running without the snorkel fitted.
Edited by: Kodename47

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post #8 of 154 (permalink) Old 10th March 2013, 09:55 Thread Starter
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Well yesterday was the dyno day at Abbey Motorsport. Stock cars ran 157-166bhp (@ the hub figures) so after all the bits done to the car it would be good to see where I was at. Some of the Abbey boys were winding me up after playing with the stock intake telling me it's probably made it worse so I was a bit anxious when the car went in.

These are at the hub figures:



The lower runs ending in 166.5 bhp (141.2 lb.ft) is my map 1 (eco) which seems to be a standard map under full throttle and is actually quite rich. I guess the partial throttle mapping has been changed to enable better fuel economy. It actually is quite handy as it shows how well the car would run stock with my mods and compares to the full Litchfield map (map 2). Peak power (178.3bhp) is now made a touch further up the power band. Seeing as I'm always saying how exact figures aren't what matters, I should take my own advice So to put it better I've actually gained roughly 7.1% peak hp and 5.1% peak torque.

It was only a hairs width away from matching a full LPP'd car for bhp, but down on torque in the midrange. I guess the intake helps out up top but a change to the exhaust would unlock some more grunt down low. Overall I'm happy, especially after all my recent tinkering.

Logs were also done on ECUtek whilst on the dyno and I'll be sending the whole lot over to Litchfield for a review.Edited by: Kodename47

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post #9 of 154 (permalink) Old 13th June 2013, 19:15 Thread Starter
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Well I thought the car needed an update, so thanks to Mark @ Abbey Motorsport I now have these:




Wheels are 17" x 7.5". Thought I'd give the Nankangs a go seeing as I got the whole lot at a good price, they look and feel pretty good. Wanted to wait out for the AD08R's but they're not coming in stock until later this year As track tyres though I reckon these should still be fairly good.

A few more parts on the horizon too.... I've stopped in the search of more power for the moment, now onto stopping better Edited by: Kodename47

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post #10 of 154 (permalink) Old 13th June 2013, 19:47
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F fuel economy, made me giggle
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