--- Current Mods List ---
Cosmetic - Interior
- P3 Gauge
- Custom YoSpeed Centre Console Plaque - Sold
- Alcantara Binnacle Cover by AJ124
- Brushed Metal Effect Wrapped Dash Parts
Cosmetic - Exterior
- De-badged with Black Toyota Emblems
- Carbon Fibre Rear Diffuser
- Carbon Fiber Rear Spats
- VLAND V2 Sequential Rear Lights
- LED Indicators, Reverse & Front Fogs Lights
- LED Smoked Side Indictors
- TRD Oil Cap - Sold
- TRD Radiator Cap - Sold
- Tarmac Sportz Bonnet Dampers
- Subaru OEM Mirror Fold Kit
Suspension, Chassis & Brakes
- Litchfield Springs
- SuperPro Front Camber Bolts
- Abbey Motorsport Geo Setup
- Beatrush Master Cylinder Brace - Sold
- Porsche GT3 Brake Ducts
- Rota Torque 17 x 7.5 with Nankang NS-2R Tyres (225) [Track/Summer] - Sold
Performance
- Sprintex Supercharger with 70mm Raceseng Pulley tuned by Abbey Motorsport & K47
- Berk HFC
- Cobra Overpipe
- eBay Q300 Replica 2.37" OD/2.25" ID Exhaust
- Airaid Intake
- Decatted OEM Manifold
- Cosworth Low Temp Thermostat
- Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can x2
- 240 bhp & 195lb.ft at the hubs (Pre Exhaust & Intake) -
** Latest Favourite Picture **
---------- BLOG ----------
1st off was a nice simple change. I disliked that the rear lights were LEDs but that the indicators weren't. I found it somewhat inconsistent. Also as an added bonus, the LED bulbs will remove the orange reflections you get in the indicator housings. I tried a couple of configurations, but I'll just post the one that I found worked well. Read my full LED indicator thread for more info.
For front and rear > 7440 CREE & 12 SMD
For sidelights > 501 5 SMD bulb
LED flasher relay
The relay is a 10 min job to replace and the bulbs are easy enough to swap. The rears need to be done in a certain way as the bulbs are too large to be able to fit in the holder and then move into place due to the short cables, but it's possible to do. The end result is actually brighter than the stock bulbs and was exactly what I was looking for.
Here's a good pic to show what the grey looks like from the front with all 3 light housings the same colour/tint, a marked improvement on the orange indicators
Next up was to do something to the induction side of things ready for my trip to Litchfield for a remap. After lots of reading and searching I decided that a “full� induction kit was a great way to waste money so decided on a halfway house, a new filter and silicone replacement intake pipe. I also wanted to keep the noise generator as I wondered that if I went this route but deleted it, would I end up with no intake noise at all? My search ended with buying in from the USA a K&N replacement filter and AVO's intake pipe. It took 10 mins with a sharp knife and sand paper to remove the tiny imperfections within the tube and 30 mins to fit everything. Full thread here
Result: throttle response slightly improved and a slightly better induction noise in the car.
Step 3. Trip to Litchfield. Rocked up with c.1500 miles on the clock. This was the requirement
- Oil & Filter Change
- Install Powerflex Positive Shifter Bushing
- Install Litchfield Eibach springs and have their fast road setup
- Have the ECUtek remap + purchase cable
The car now feels great. The power delivery feels much better on the performance map, the torque dip is much less noticeable and it actually sounds more aggressive too. The economy map also returns better MPG too for those that worry about these things. That was proven on a very snowy return cross-country journey from Tewkesbury
My purchase, useful for logging and map updates etc.
Here's how the car looks as a result