Yep, its quite an investmet. I purchased an HT Autos splitter a while ago but never fitted. If anybody is after one?


Not sure a diffuser would be practical for me. My last 100m is an access road only jobby and the owner is both unwilling to regularily maintain it and refuses contributions by all users to help with its upkeep The **** only fills in the holes when the council threaten to ban the binvan from coming up which coincidently is also slowy guaging out a spot of their own on it! On these rare occasions it's not just bags of chipings he uses but whole feckin flagstones We then have to wait for the daftbat schumaker type delivery drivers to scar the company commercials they fly around in! The first crack can be the worst when it can often snap in half and thump the undercarrige ! apologies, I digress..................


****

Yes because a McPherson strut has a poor camber profile resulting in gaining camber (remember its negative camber we are adding) as the car rolls. In hard cornering when the tyres are warm with lots of grip, the stationary negative camber help compensate and even out the pressure applied across the tread and thus temperature is more evenly distributed. You'll get more grip and more even wear, rather than overheating the outside edge.

You can see in the pic below, even with -2.5deg camber up front, with 6.2kg/mm springs Front and 7.2kg Springs Rear , the front is rolling onto the outside edge a little bit. Its a compromise though as loads of camber will wear your inner tread on the road. For me -2.5deg is the sweet spot.

Looking good dude!

Pic post top mount fitment

That looks spot on! Assuming the wheels are 18s. Mine sits higher than that at the rear on the 17" track wheels and they are low as they can go.

Cheers Rich


Wheels are 17 x 9 Rota Titans. Are you on Ohlins R & T?



Waiting to pick up ride heigh spec confirmation info later this week for latest set up. Will post up when I get them

2019-08-06_01-03-04 by Richard Beale, on Flickr


Im on the original MI20 setup? 6kg spring all round and ohlin pillow ball top mount. im on 17 x 7.5 rotas here and I think it looks a little higher at the rear.

Its the firmer springs on your car Rich.

Hatchi - what preload are you running? as the standard 2mm will be too low for 50N springs. You wont have enough bump travel.

No preload data for my 30N/mm rear springs on the MP21 kit supplied by Ohlins. I gave up requesting it�� 40N/mm spring data that came with my kit stated 38mm from a free length of 230mm

Data is available for 30N/mm spring preload for the MP20 kit. This is stated as 28mm from a free length of 230mm but never heard of anybody running that spring on the earlier kit?

I must admit I have forgotten what we set the preload on the rears to but I suspect it would have been nearer to the figure given for the 30N/mm spring on the MP20 kit

I didn't have time to get all my original bits and ride height/geo data last time due to time constraints so I plan to get all the set up data when I next visit

You definitely want some preload on 50N springs otherwise youll be eating away at bump travel.

There is not a massive amount of free travel at the back on 60N springs.

Off the top of my head: you have apporox 220kg unsprung per side and damper have a gas pressure force of ~20kg. with a motion ratio of 0.56, thats a force of 395kg on the spring.

The rears have 80mm of free travel, so with 60N/mm you use up 375/(60/9.81) = 65mm, leaving 19mm/0.56 = 33mm of bump stop free wheel travel with zero preload.

With 50N/mm you use up 375/(50/9.81) = 73.5mm leaving only 6.5mm/0.56 = 11.5mm of bump stop free wheel travel. So id recommend about 12mm preload as a starting point.


There is a typo in the manual for the MP20. I am sure it should be 38mm on the back. 375/(30/9.81) = 122.6mm minus 38mm = 85mm. Its sitting on the bump rubbers a tad at this point.


Bare in mind with all of this that the bumpstops are about 40mm and quite progressive as well as the fancy damping, but the data above is for reference.