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JonnyDiezels Black MY2017

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jonnydiezel View Drop Down
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    Posted: 18 May 2017 at 5:36pm
Had mine for nearly a month now and loving it , already started making a few small 'changes'
Nothing major but just thought I'd start logging them here for reference

Car is GT86 Pro in black with Touch 2 Nav system, and parking sensor option


The first day I got it :-)
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jonnydiezel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonnydiezel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2017 at 5:44pm
First 'mod' was to program the sigma alarm with the right code so that it beeped upon lock and unlock
I had this on my last car and found it invaluable as a memory aid (I'm getting old..)

Then a couple of accessories brought over from my old car, dash cam and brodit phone holder


Had to buy a new mount for the car but had the phone cradle already.



Both of these with wires hidden and connected into the secret power socket behind the glovebox


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jonnydiezel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonnydiezel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2017 at 6:01pm
It will probably soften up in time, but found the stitching on the gear knob a bit 'rough'
Looked on the net and couldn't find anything I wanted to change it for, so tried driving with it rotated  90 degrees and it was actually much better . so I've left it left it like that for now.
Looks a bit odd but figured when it 'wears in' I'll put it back how it was


Then I decided to lower the clutch pedal after having read a few guides on how to do it.
(Still not 100% gelling with the seating position and think this was one reason why)

Found it incredibly easy to do only took 5 mins, think it must be way easier on RHD models
I adjusted it as much as I could by undoing the top nut shown here, releasing pressure by pushing clutch pedal a little by hand and then winding the lower nut down as far as it would go.
Last step was to tighten the top nut. A quick up and down the road to make sure its all good and done!





Edited by jonnydiezel - 18 May 2017 at 6:07pm
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jonnydiezel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonnydiezel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2017 at 9:50pm
My next addition to the car is a reversing camera which I just fitted this week.

First up was getting a reverse camera connector for my Touch 2 head unit.
This place was one of the few I found that did them
https://car-solutions.com/en/car-camera-connection-cable-to-toyota-touch-2-monitor-entune.php
Item arrived quickly and was good quality as you see on the site, little bit of foam wrapped around connector with labels on each wire. Very happy with it, and cost after currency conversion was about £25.

Next I looked at cameras with a view to getting something that would look OEM, and same as ones fitted to the Australian models I'd seem online. And I wanted it to fit in exactly the same place on the left side where there is a faint ridge indicating where it goes.

Eventually got to this one on Ebay which was super cheap (£8.70) and seemed to fit the requirements.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321710615941?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 It arrived eventually (from China) and looked exactly like it did in the pics, so very happy with that purchase too.

Now it did state about the camera that a 12V supply would be required and the head unit only outputs 6V as far as I understood, but after I tried a quick temp connection to the head unit to confirm I found that it worked perfectly well directly fed from the head unit output. Bonus no relay required! So either the camera works at 6V or the head unit is putting out higher voltage than expected. I was going to measure output with a meter but in the end I just counted my blessings and carried on.

So total cost was about £35 including wiring, camera and connector and it took roughly two hours to fit. Most time was spent removing interior trim as I ran the wires down the passenger side sill area and into the boot. I made an effort to secure the wires well and added felt tape along the way as I know loose uncovered wires can lead to rattles.

When it got to fitting the camera to the boot handle area I managed to feed the wire from the camera through the existing grommet for the boot switch. This and getting through the 'boot lid to boot' grommet was made easier because of the tiny connector on the camera, as it helped to grab something solid to push through instead of pushing floppy wires.

Few pics of the final result:






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CJS1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJS1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2017 at 6:59am
Well done, looks a good job. Its a pity reversing cameras aren't fitted as standard, visibility is pretty awful when reversing.
CJS
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jonnydiezel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonnydiezel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2017 at 9:01am
Thanks. Yup its a shame its not even available in the UK to have as factory fitted especially as the head unit is already geared up for it.

More pics I took of the wiring in the boot lid

the small plug snaked its way through here with a bit of push-pull push-pull


this took a bit of doing, I had to cut the bottom of the grommet open slightly to fit that small connector, as its moulded tight for the twin brown wires only


bundled up excess wires and attached to existing wires which are clipped in tight to the lid


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jonnydiezel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonnydiezel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2017 at 5:35pm
More changes underway this weekend, sound deaden both doors in readiness for fitment of new Hertz speakers.

After a bit of research on various forums I decided to use similar methods to those posted on sounddeadenershowdown.com and this post from ft86club:  http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53511

First removed the door panel, and the top half of the vapor barrier to install some 2mm SilentCoat sheets to the inside of the outer door panel. I just cut 2 sheets diagonally to fit above/below the door brace.


I bought 2x MLV/CCF sheets which were already bonded together from DodoMat , their Pro barrier product . One for each door, although I had to use a bit of excess that got cut off the bottom and joined to the side to get the full door length.



After quite a bit of temp fitting and cutting cycles it looked something like this when placed into the door card. I cut some away some foam only in squares and used some high strength adhesive velcro strips to hang it from the door and proceeded to cut out the speaker holes.



A lot of wrestling involved to get the white push clips to go back in due to the extra thickness now in between the door panel and door, but in the end they all went in and the panel is nice and tight.
Also the door shuts now with a very soft sounding thud

For the moment I've fitted the OEM speakers back in place until I can figure out where I am going to put the crossovers for my new speakers. There is already a noticeable improvement to the low frequencies coming from the speakers even though the OEM ones are very light and weedy looking.
Don't think I've ever seen such small magnets on door speakers before





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BRZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BRZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2017 at 8:39pm
Neatly fitted reversing cam. Well done Jonny. Looking forward to your speaker and other mods.
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jonnydiezel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonnydiezel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 12:59pm
forgot this pic of the mlv/ccf hung onto the door just before I put the door card back on



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jonnydiezel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jonnydiezel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2017 at 7:16pm
Had a couple of hours yesterday to continue with the audio upgrade work.

After deciding to put my crossovers in the glovebox for the time being (as I will probably end up going active at some point) I started on routing the speaker wires.

 With any of the changes I'm making I am desperately trying not to cut/change any existing wiring/trim etc. so that things can be reverted back to original state when the time comes. So in order to reuse the existing wiring I bought some connectors which replace the tweeter connector with 2 separate wire pairs, 1 for head unit and 1 for door speaker. 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Aygo-2007-2014-Top-Dash-Tweeter-Car-Speaker-Adaptor-Plug-Lead-Connectors/262811980332?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

So working it out, I needed 3 pairs of wires going from the glovebox to each tweeter location.

 Couldn't find much information about how best to route cables through/under the dash but did notice the alarm movement detector wires and thought about following their path. After removing the tweeter covers, binnacle, instrument cluster, dash panel and head unit I found the path I wanted and set to routing the first run of cable. Then by attaching the end back to the reel for 2 more 'pull through' loops on the path I had my 3 pairs.

Same on the passenger side but this was a much shorter path, and I found a trick the lower the glovebox a little more by pushing inward on the catches on each side where it stops dropping . The plastic bends and the glovebox drops enough to give more room for your hand to grab incoming wires.

 Used lots of felt tape and zip ties to keep things soft and secure in the dash. Hopefully at the weekend I can finally fit the speakers and crossovers, can't wait to found out how it sounds.

Some pics of the cabling:


 


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